US60 Extra: Diverging Diamond Interchange

Leaving Paducah, KY, this morning, drove through my first Diverging Diamond Interchange (DDI).



I had seen videos about them in the past and they looked quite innovative. After driving one this morning, I declare that they are genius! By shifting the arterial lanes, they vastly improve flow on and off the highway, greatly reduce backups on the ramps, and speed up traffic on the arterials.



If the US ever seriously undertakes nationwide infrastructure improvement, I hope as many interchanges are converted to DDIs as possible!

SouthDakotAmericana

Driving toward Rapid City, SD, earlier this week, I took a detour into the historic town of Deadwood. I was sufficiently overwhelmed by what a sleazy tourist trap it is, however, that I didn't even stop the car and drove straight through. Accordingly, I did not post anything about my so-called "visit" there.

Leaving Rapid City this morning, I soon found myself approaching the famed "Wall Drug" as noted by countless billboard signs en route. I have been there several times over the years, but decided to stop and see if it had changed at all. It has not changed one bit, still the immense warren of shops and dining facilities, not to my liking. So, I only stayed long enough to pick up a free bumper sticker then continued on my way east.



About an hour before reaching Sioux Falls, SD, for the night, the town of Mitchell offers "The World's Only Corn Palace." I have missed the opportunity to check it out on previous road trips, so I stopped by to take a look.



I'm not sure how to describe the Corn Palace. Entry is free and a couple of long corridors offer more history of corn than even I could endure. The main feature of the building is an arena, mostly set up for basketball, with an array of very large murals made up of light and dark ears of corn.



I may have missed the point, possibly even missing a part of the facility, as I quickly exited a side door, returned to my vehicle and took my dog for a walk. I may be old and jaded about Americana at this point in my life, but my three stabs at South Dakota Americana were pretty much a bust.

South Dakota Air And Space Museum

Taking a day off from driving in Rapid City, SD, meant having time to visit the South Dakota Air and Space Museum. The facility houses an informative indoor display ares, but the main attraction is the impressive assortment of aircraft parked outside in a large, well organized and placarded array.

The museum is located adjacent to Ellsworth Air Force Base – home to the 28th Bomb Wing of the Global Strike Command – so the B-1B Lancer is featured front and center as you enter the grounds.



Among the two dozen aircraft on the grounds, you will find a spectrum of small trainers, utility and cargo aircraft, several generations of fighters and bombers. The B-29 Superfortress is in excellent condition, and amazing to compare to the vastly larger size of the B-52 that sits nearby.



Overall, an excellent two-hour diversion which I highly recommend... Stay tuned!

Happy The Hotel Dog

Usually after a long, hard day on the road, I have a big drink of water then curl up in my bed and sleep. But sometimes I'm fired up, ready to get on the big bed and watch TV with Macgellan!

Three Forks – Missouri River Headwaters

On July 4th, 1803, Thomas Jefferson issued these orders to Meriwether Lewis:

"The object of your mission is to explore the Missouri River, and such principal stream of it, as, by its course and communications with the waters of the Pacific Ocean may offer the most direct and practicable water communication across this continent."

Many months and hardships later, The Corps of Discovery arrived in what is now called Three Forks Montana. Here, they found the confluence of two rivers they named Jefferson and Madison (left and center) forming the headwaters of the Missouri River (right) which they had been tasked to explore.



Barely a mile downstream, the Gallatin River joins the flow and the Missouri is already a substantial river. Over the next 2,341 miles it will become the "Mighty Mo", the longest river in North America.

We had a nice, informative visit here during our drive from Helena to Billings.

Happy was not particularly impressed by the history and significance of the location, but she thoroughly enjoyed the taste of some cool, yummy river water.

So far, the weather has been absolutely perfect. Temperatures have ranged from the low-60s in the mornings to mid-70s in the afternoons.

We are going to spend just the night in Billings, then push east into the Dakotas tomorrow... Stay tuned!

Gates Of The (Rocky) Mountains

During my non-driving day in Helena, MT, I spent a very enjoyable afternoon with an old friend, during which we took a delightful boat ride on a lake in the Missouri River. The two-hour excursion included a variety of narrated sights, including geology, wildlife and native history in the area.

A highlight of the trip was passing through the famous Gates of the (Rocky) Mountains:



The Gates of the Mountains were named by Lewis and Clark. Captain Lewis wrote on July 19, 1805:

"This evening we entered the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen. These clifts rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the height of 1200 feet. ... the river appears to have forced its way through this immense body of solid rock for the distance of 5-3/4 Miles ... I called it the gates of the rocky mountains."

In 1918, when Holter Dam was built forming Holter Lake, the water level of the Missouri River in the Gates was raised approximately 14 feet (4.3 m).

Another highlight was a close-up view of Mann Gulch, where a 1949 fire claimed the lives of 13 firefighters and which was the subject of Norman Maclean's book Young Men and Fire, which I heartily recommend to one and all!

We will continue east tomorrow, probably pausing at Three Forks, where the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin rivers converge to form the Missouri River, then continuing on to the Billings, MT, area... Stay tuned!

WA Hwy 20: Success! (and a little sadness at the end)

Success! I was able to make the drive of WA Hwy 20 straight through to the end at the Idaho border!

The drive out of Kettle Falls this morning was a very entertaining two-lane track through tall, dense evergreen trees, punctuated only occasionally by tiny little towns and seasonal road work stoppages. It was pretty to look at, but not something that lends itself to being photographed.

That lack of photogeneity ended abruptly when I reached the Pend Orielle river at the tiny town of Tiger, WA.

There's something about driving along a beautiful river that always gives me joy. I think it's partly the peek-a-boo views that you get around every turn in the road, but it's also that sense of quiet power I get from a moving body of water.

Whatever the reason, it was a beautiful hour's drive down to Newport, WA, and quite possibly the highlight of the trip.

In truth, it took us about twice that long due to multiple stops along the way. Happy is also a big fan of river walks, so we dawdled at various places to enjoy the sights, sounds, smells, etc. She also frequently practiced her art of leaving p-mail for future visitors from the canine nation.

Those of you who know how I look forward to seeing "Begin" and "End" signs at the termini of my road trips will understand that I was a little sad not to see anything of the kind at the border of Idaho. The closest thing to it is this monstrosity, which denotes WA Hwy 20 cutting away from US Hwy 2.



Sad as that may be, I am delighted to finally have made the WA Hwy 20 trip from end to end! Once that was accomplished, I was a bit nostalgic about being back on my old friend US Hwy 2 for the stint down to Spokane. I've driven all of US Hwy 2, and many parts of it many times before. If you ever get the chance to drive it, do it. The "Hi-Line" is an epic drive.

I plan to be in Spokane for a couple of days to visit with friends, then will sprint east to Helena, MT, to visit with other friends. Look at me being all social! Stay tuned...

WA Hwy 20: So Far So Good!

Two thirds of the way across Washington State, it's looking like I'll finally be able to drive the entire length of WA Hwy 20! If all goes well, we will complete it at the border with Idaho tomorrow.

Heading east out of Burlington yesterday, Happy and I made several stops just for fun, including one to take the required photo of Diablo Lake. Even on a hazy day, it is a stunningly beautiful lake.

We stopped for the night in the small town of Omak. After her first full day on the road in quite a while, Happy was obviously pleased that I found her a nice shady spot in a grassy park to catch up on her sleep.

Happy is 14 years old now and definitely showing signs of age. Mostly deaf and partially blind, she's also got some arthritis and has small "tremors" and balance issues, which the vets say is the onset of a neurological degradation similar to Parkinson's in humans.

I'm pretty sure this will be her last road trip, and I am determined to make it a good one for her to wrap up her career.

We continued east this morning, crossing the typical rolling hills of Central Washington, then made our way over several passes.

This is the area that was badly burned several years ago when we were thwarted in a previous attempt to transit this highway end-to-end. It is remarkable to see how many of the trees have recovered.

So far, I am quite pleased with my new little road rig. Although it is has only a fraction the power and capabilities of my previous trucks, it is performing quite capably in the mountains. It is also far more nimble and economical to drive.

Having the large, open van so easily accessible, it is turning out to be more comfortable and convenient to get in and out of. Happy seems to be giving her new dog-truck a smile of approval!



We've stopped for the night in Kettle Falls, which is as far as I got coming from the east on my last WA Hwy 20 transit attempt. The town sits on the edge of Roosevelt Lake, which is a major body of water caused by the Grand Coulee Dam about a hundred miles to the southwest. You can just see a piece of the water from this roadside vantage point.



If all continues to go well, we will drive the final 100 mile stint on WA Hwy 20 to the Idaho border tomorrow. From there we will drop a short distance south to Spokane, to visit with friends and get ready to head east on the larger highways.

Kentucky Anniversary

Today marks the anniversary of my arrival in Kentucky, and almost a year since my last post. I've been busy, but not with Macgellan kinds of stuff. I've generally enjoyed my time here, despite being somewhat of an alien. Let's face it, I don't share the predominant Kentucky politics, religion or love of basketball. Nevertheless, I've made a few friends, had some good experiences and learned a lot.

I'm not at liberty to say much about the project I did here last year. In brief, I was engaged to move here and participate in Kentucky's nascent industrial hemp program, to grow some hemp and prepare it for processing. Easier said than done.

Because industrial hemp has been foolishly outlawed in the US for almost a century, I quickly found that nobody knows much -- and I knew nothing -- about how to grow it. Starting from scratch, I recruited farmers, sourced seeds, managed agronomy, designed specialty harvesting equipment and facilitated harvest and handling. I can't say the project was entirely successful, but for a first-time effort it was rewarding to get any crops at all. Farming is harder than it looks.

If you'd like to get a look-and-feel for the project, you can watch the video on my client's website. As you do, keep in mind that when the farmers say they've learned everything they know about growing hemp from the company, they're talking about me. I never pretended to know anything about growing industrial hemp -- and my farmers could see that right away -- but I have a pretty good record for learning things quickly and teaching it on the fly!

That project wrapped up in October, but I decided to hang around for a while. Why am I still here in the dead of winter? Well, partly because I have some ideas that I think might be fun to pursue involving industrial hemp, and partly because I honestly don't have anything else on my to-do list right now. It's actually been fun to be in one place for a while, not occupied with exploration and giving myself a chance to really catch up with myself. I'll let you know what comes of it!

Kentucky Snow Bound!

It was a bit of a grind, but Happy and I made the two-week transit from Seattle to Kentucky in good order.

Heading south through California before heading east turned out to be a good plan. The weather held up quite well except for a few days of challenging cross-winds on the interstate, and we even got to enjoy some temps in the 70s along the southern portion of our drive.

We made camp in a pretty good RV park, with compact spaces set among rolling hills. The people and facilities are quite nice and there are wide open fields for romping.

Just after we got settled in the weather turned nasty, with cold temps and biting winds. As you can see in this photo from my window, we've also had a pretty good snowfall with more on the way later in the week. Like many of you, Kentucky is having an unusually cold and snowy winter!



So, we begin our Kentucky project with a few weather challenges, made easier by a good crockpot and access to plenty of propane. I don't know how much there will be to report about what we will be doing here, but we will keep you up to date as best we can... Stay tuned!

Kentucky Bound!

After six months in Seattle with pretty much nothing going on, I've been feeling the urge to get moving again. Very quickly over the past few weeks, a number of conditions and circumstances have combined to offer a very interesting -- even exciting! -- opportunity in Kentucky. So, Happy and I are breaking our Seattle camp and hitting the road, Kentucky bound.

In due course I'll share more about why we're going to Kentucky and what we're doing there, but for now here's the gist of our immediate road trip:

Because it's winter -- and I'm determined not to get stuck in Wyoming again! -- our route plan takes us far south before heading east. Also because it's winter, we're going to stick to the interstates rather than journey through the wilds of an old US Highway.



Because of our route and intended speed -- we want to get there in less than two weeks -- I don't think there will be much in the way of exploration to report along the way. I'll certainly fire up the old "dash cam" and share anything that's worthwhile, but don't expect a lot. There will be plenty to report when we get to Kentucky... Stay tuned!

Happy: Pacific Northwest Camp

Hi!... I'm Happy... I'm always Happy... Today I'm very happy about my new Pacific Northwest Camp!

Because of all the really bad fires in Washington State, Macgellan and I skipped the rest of our planned route across the state and headed straight to the Seattle area. We are now parked in a really nice RV park, in a space right next to a small lake. As you can see, I have been spending lots of time out in the sunshine, enjoying my naps in peace and quiet.



For those times when I don't feel like being out in the open, I've made several little dens for myself.

This one is in the pine needles at the base of a large tree that makes our campsite very secluded.

I also have two hidden dens under the tall, thick hedges that give us privacy on both sides of our rig.

I've even got a bed under the camper for when I'm hiding from the rain or thunder, and of course I've always got my Igloo dog house under the awning right outside the camper door.

If all else fails, the back seat of my truck is always a comfy spot!

I have to take a lot of naps just to use all my sleeping places!

After four solid months on the road, we're both ready to be in one place for a while. Macgellan says we're going to be here for at least a few months and maybe through the winter. That's fine by me!

I'm sure we'll do some fun stuff (besides sleep) while we're here, so I'll keep you posted!

Roosevelt Lake

In my post on Monday, I mentioned that Kettle Falls, WA, is on the shores of Roosevelt Lake, which was formed by backing up the Columbia River over 100 miles away at Grand Coulee Dam.

Happy and I took a nice long walk today, along one of the bluffs overlooking the lake. We got this nice panorama photo (Thanks again, iPhone!) and think it's worth sharing! (Click to embiggen)



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WA Hwy 20: Plan C

The wildfires in north-central Washington remain almost entirely uncontained, and new fires are being reported throughout the area. Both my intended route west (WA20) and my first alternate (US2) remain closed. Here's a little graphic that may help you to better see the situation:



The Carlton Complex fire is huge, now approaching 400 square miles. That's at least four times the size of the Seattle metropolitan area. Here's a map that shows its approximate size and shape. Be sure to look at the scale and try to imagine if this fire was burning in your area:



It has become clear to me that another day or two isn't going to bring any hope of the road being reliably open. Even if it opens in one place, it's very likely to be closed again in another. The last thing I want to do is get stuck in the middle of all that. The small reward just isn't worth the big risk.

So, I'm now looking at Plan C: Heading south to I-90 then west to Ellensburg and approaching Seattle from the southeast. That probably means nothing for any of you who are unfamiliar with the roads in Washington, so here's another nifty little graphic that may make it clearer for you:



I'll shave some of that distance off by heading southwest out of Kettle Falls on state highways, instead of going down and around through Spokane. It should be a relatively easy two-stint drive.

After four solid months on the road, I'm really fine with this alternative. I've already seen and done plenty on this expedition, and I'm feeling ready to be in one place for a while again... Stay tuned!

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WA Hwy 20: Part 1 -- Newport To Kettle Falls

With the largest forest fires in the state's history raging out of control throughout north-central Washington, it is entirely possible that WA Hwy 20 will remain closed in places and I will not be able to complete my intended end-to-end transit. Nevertheless, I'm determined to give it a go and hope that my relatively slow pace of western movement will allow time for conditions to evolve in my favor!

WA Hwy 20 begins in the town of Newport, just inside the state's eastern border. Although it is a significant route across the top tier of the state, only a simple overhead sign indicates its origin.



Heading up the Pend Oreille River valley, the region is a mix of agriculture and forested mountains. As you can see, smoke from fires over a hundred miles away is dense enough to reduce visibility.



As the valley narrows, the road runs quite close to the river and offers a number of nice views. As you might imagine, the corresponding railway line is also quite near, just out of view on the left.



At the tiny crossroads town of Tiger, WA20 turns west to follow the Little Pend Oreille River. It makes a long, steep and twisty climb through heavily wooded forest, then over a pass before descending.



Heading west down the valley to Colville and Kettle Falls is a very pretty drive. Looking at the terrain, it's easy to see how the grass and timber can be so flammable in the dry season.



I'm in a perfectly satisfactory little RV park in Kettle Falls, a small lumber town where the river runs into Roosevelt Lake. The lake is actually a man-made reservoir of the Columbia River, backed up over a hundred miles from its use to generate power at Grand Coulee Dam.

For a thousand years before the Dam was built, this area was a major salmon fishing area for native peoples and a significant crossroads for trappers and traders. All of that is gone now, of course, though the small local museum and interpretive center do their best to preserve the memory.

My plan is to stay here for three days, partly to check out the area but mostly to see what happens with the fires and roads to the west... Stay tuned!

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Washington Wildfire Watch & Wait

Happy and I are now just inside the northeast border of Washington state, enjoying a few days of R&R in this lovely wooded campsite. It is quite large, semi-secluded and very peaceful... Perfect!



I think it may be Happy's favorite campsite ever, owing particularly to the surrounding woods. She has made herself quite a nice little alpine doggie den, in which she is quite well camouflaged. (Can you see her in the photo below left?) Her relaxation is complete and she's making the most of it!



I'm relaxing, too, though not quite as much due to challenges ahead in the form of huge, uncontained wildfires in the middle of the state. You've probably seen them on the news... They're raging!

My plan has been to drive Washington SR20 across the top tier of the state, all the way from the eastern border at Newport to Anacortes on the Puget Sound. It's a beautiful road that I've driven parts of before, and I've been looking forward to doing an end-to-end transit in the weeks ahead.

Because of the fires, WA20 is currently closed right smack in the middle of the state. I'm not planning to be there for about a week, and am hopeful that it will reopen by the time I get there. If not, I'll head south and take my old friend US2 across the mountains, though that road is also closed at the moment because of the fires. Worst case, I'll drop farther south and drive I-90 west to Seattle.

There's nothing I can do besides watch and wait, making short hops west as conditions permit... Stay tuned!

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Glacier NP: "Going-to-the-Sun Road"

Glacier National Park's famous "Going-to-the-Sun Road" has been on my "Drive List" for years. Because it's only open for a brief period during the summer, I've never seemed to be in the right place at the right time. When I heard it had finally opened last week, I decided this was the year.

Starting from the east side near St. Mary, MT, the road begins as a gentle climb up the valley. A large fire to the north has unfortunately blanketed the area with a smoky haze, but you can still how beautiful Glacier NP is, and why it is one of the very best in the country.



A few miles later, the road ascends much more steeply. The abrupt drop-off and blasted rock (plus a couple of "interesting" tunnels) give you an idea of what went into building the road.



Just over the summit at Logan Pass, you get an excellent view back down the valley, and a good view across to your route down the other side. It's not as gradual as it looks!



There was a lot of traffic, so I tried to take my photos in the gaps. Don't let the single car in this shot fool you, it's a heavily traveled road full of drivers who want to go at all different speeds.



I can't say it's the best road I've ever driven, but it definitely deserves a place in the top dozen or so. The long, steady, winding route down the valley offers consistently beautiful views.



Down in the valley, the road follows a river to the main tourist/visitor facilities at Lake McDonald. From there, it's a short drive farther to the West Glacier gate.



If you ever visit Glacier NP, the "Going-to-the-Sun Road" is pretty much a mandatory activity. Plan on using an entire day to cover the 50 mile road at a good pace for viewing and frequent stops, then either turn around and go back the same way or — my suggestion — drive the very pretty US2 return route around the southern border of the Park.

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US Hwy 191: Pine Creek Lodge

Ten miles south of Livingston, MT -- and just a half mile up the hill from my campground -- is an unexpected culinary treasure. I was referred to Pine Creek Lodge by my campground hosts when I asked if there was anyplace to eat in the nearby area. At first glance when I pulled up, I figured it was going to be a typical "lodge" with mediocre food and rustic ambiance. I was totally wrong.

It's a small place, with a half-dozen tables inside and a few more on a deck outside for use in warm weather. There's also a small bar with five stools, just the kind of spot I like.

Scott runs a quiet, efficient operation, the kind where it's obvious people know what they're doing.

Katrina is a delightful hostess and server, helpful with suggestions about the menu and perfectly attentive.

The menu is one-page, but surprising in it's breadth of offerings. The food descriptions are simple and concise, but make it clear that there's a real chef in the kitchen, not just a cook.

My dinner was perfectly delicious, an impossibly fresh garden salad followed by the kind of melt-in-your-mouth ribs that can only be accomplished by skill and time. In addition to al dente seasonal vegetables and a tasty potato portion, the plating included a delightfully unexpected black bean and corn garnish. Not your typical "lodge" food by a long shot!

If you're ever in the Livingston area -- for which I reprise my enthusiasm -- be sure to make the short drive down the valley to eat at Pine Creek Lodge. There's no better way to finish off a good day of exploration than by having a great meal at an unexpected culinary treasure!

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US Hwy 70 — Detour: Natchez Trace Parkway

You may be wondering why a guy who doesn't like cities or country music is visiting Nashville, TN. Well, the main reason I am here is to scout out a road… And what a road it turned out to be!

The Natchez Trace Parkway runs 444 miles from the southern Appalachian foothills near Nashville to the bluffs of the lower Mississippi River, not far from the Gulf of Mexico. It is in a national park throughout its route, commemorating the most significant early highway of the Old Southwest.



To say it is an impossibly beautiful road does not do it justice. Uninterrupted by so much as a stop sign for its entire length, the smooth two lane roadway is a pleasure to drive. Commercial traffic is prohibited, there are few access point to other roads and the speed limit is 50mph. All of which combine to make it a peaceful, secluded, lightly traveled route. It is simply gorgeous!



The natural travel corridor that became the Natchez Trace dates back many centuries. It bisected the traditional homelands of the Natchez, Chickasaw and Choctaw nations. As the US expanded westward in the late 1700s and early 1800s, growing numbers of travelers tramped the rough trail into a clearly marked path. You can see it here, on the far side of the fence.



There are numerous opportunities to pause along the road, ranging from simple pull-outs to more substantial picnic/camping areas with comfort facilities. Natural and historical points of interest are well designed and maintained, illustrating in some detail the historical significance of the route.

Happy and I stopped at one to take a lovely 2-mile loop walk through the woods, and at another to see a monument commemorating the route's significance in moving troops during the War of 1812.



Not surprisingly, the road is very popular with cyclists, and I strongly encourage any of you two-wheelers to make it a priority ride. Limited access to supplies, facilities and accommodations would require some detailed planning, but I guarantee it would be the ride of your life.



It didn't hurt to drive the route on a beautiful day! While the portion of the road that I drove was set mostly amongst lush green forests, there were numerous places to stop and enjoy sweeping views of the countryside. The entire route crosses four distinct ecosystems, all sure to be stunning.



Since my mission for the day was only to scout the road as a possible future expedition — which it clearly warrants and is now on my list! — I stopped after driving only 60 of the 444 miles. That coincided with the location of one of the larger park facilities on the route, where Ranger Carol provided me with some excellent intel on planning my future exploration and gave Happy some much appreciated pats. It's also where Meriwhether Lewis "died of gunshot wounds" so Happy and I posed by the monument in honor of our fellow explorer.



After a long, overwhelmingly rewarding day scouting this astonishing road, Happy and I high-tailed it on the nearest interstate back to Nashville for the night. Considering the semi-leisurely pace we set for the day, I'm now planning on 10 days to do our future expedition right… Stay tuned!



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