Happy: My Fan In Malta, Montana!

Hi!... I'm Happy... I'm always Happy... Today I'm happy because I got pictures from a fan!

You may recall that I had a not-so-happy time when Macgellan and I were in Malta, MT, over the Fourth of July, because I really, really, really don't like fireworks!

A good thing about our time there was that I got to meet Willa and we became the best of friends!



It was so nice of her to send me these photos, showing how she loved me and I loved her right back!

Something I've learned: No matter how bad someplace is, there's always something good there too!

Thanks, Willa!

US Hwy 191: The End At The Northern Border

The last 57 mile stint on US191 north -- from Malta, MT, to the Canadian border -- is basically more of the same: Mostly wide open grasslands with occasional terrain features to break the monotony.



Considering that there wasn't an official "Begin" or "End" sign for US191 at the southern border in Douglas, AZ, it didn't surprise me that there wasn't a similar sign at its remote northern terminus.

I didn't realize it when I snapped this photo, but in it is the last US191 sign, 16 miles from the border.



Morgan "point of entry" is larger than I expected for such a remote facility, perhaps due to its need to provide housing for personnel.

I didn't pass another vehicle the entire drive up, so I doubt that traffic warrants the facility's size.

I hopped out of my truck to see if there was a US191 sign showing from the opposite direction.

There wasn't, so this photo must serve to chronicle that I completed my border-to-border road trip.

What there was plenty of, however, were millions of mosquitos who instantly attacked me. They forced me to beat a hasty retreat to my truck, where I sat for a minute to reflect on my journey.

Driving US191 has been another excellent road trip. Getting out of the desert heat and finding my little Alpine paradise was a great start. The Coronado Trail, Canyon de Chelley, Arches National Park and Dinosaurland were all treats, a little revisiting of the past and much brand new exploration.

Grand Teton and Yellowstone Parks may have been a bummer for me, but the river valleys to the north and Livingston, MT, more than made up for them. Even the long haul north across central Montana has had a certain zen to it. I'm glad I changed my original plan from US95 to US191.

As always when I've completed an expedition, the question automatically arises, "What's next?"

I don't have a "plan" going forward, but I do have a destination: I've arranged to be in the Seattle area starting August 1st, for what I expect will be at least a few months of various engagement.

There's a lot of territory between here and there, with a lot on offer along the way. I have almost a month to make the transit, more than enough time to "follow my nose" and see what happens.

After three full months of documenting virtually every day, I'll admit I'm a little worn out from the "digital overhead" of reporting my findings on this site. So, I'm going to give myself a break and not declare a pre-defined expedition to chronicle. I want to just wander for a little while.

That said, you know I'm very likely to report any highlights... Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 191: North-Central Montana

For about 70 miles north of Lewistown, MT, US191 runs through vast open grasslands. There are a few rolling hills to traverse along the way, but it's mostly flat and grassy as far as the eye can see.



All of a sudden -- and I mean sudden -- it looks like you're about to drive off the edge of a cliff.



With relief -- but still on edge about the long steep pitch you have to manage if you're pulling a trailer -- you realize that you're descending into what's known as the Missouri River Breaks. It's a daunting complex of valleys, created over the eons by a river that must have been absolutely huge in the past.



Crossing the modern Missouri River is actually quite anti-climactic, as the whole thing is spanned by a pretty typical little highway overpass bridge. Still, it's a significant milestone on this road trip.



North of the river the vast grasslands continue, though "vast" somehow seems an inadequate descriptor. For the next 70 miles, the impossibly green, lush and seemingly endless fields roll by.



Driving this narrow, uneven stretch of road takes a surprising amount of concentration.

The lack of shoulders -- and presence of strong, gusting crosswinds -- qualifies it as stressful.

With nary a roadside pull-out to be found, it almost feels like you are a prisoner of the road.

So, it was a bit of a relief when I reached the town of Malta, MT, and the intersection with my old friend, the US2 "Hi-Line."

From here it's 60 miles to the Canadian border.

The map shows virtually nothing along the way.

I plan to drive there and back tomorrow, wrapping up this road trip… Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 191: Lewistown, MT

Believe it or not, there's actually a fancy printed pamphlet entitled "50+ Things To Do in Lewistown, Montana."

Most of them are once-a-year events that are unlikely attractions for a casual visitor, and most of the rest are outdoor activities or other attractions in the much broader area.

Still, there are a few in-town features, of which the Central Montana Museum is the best and a good place to start.

It's a better than average local museum, with a few very fine and extensive displays.

In other places it suffers from a bit of the typical clutter, but the documentary signage is excellent and explains a lot about the area's history, heritage, etc.

From cavalry battles to nuclear missiles silos, a lot has happened in this area!



A highpoint of my day -- quite literally -- was making the drive up nearby Judith Peak. Enticed by the promise of a spectacular view, it was a long, steep slog up a rough gravel road to the summit. It was a good workout for my truck's four-wheel-low drivetrain, and I was once again impressed with how well it performed. At the top, it was just me, Happy and an impressive array of antennae.



It's too bad the sky was so hazy, because the spectacular view could have been truly amazing. Nevertheless, you can see how the grass and timber covered hills make this a very beautiful area.



Returning to town, I was amused by this large sign. (Read it to the bottom and you'll understand.)

I can report that the town's quality of life receives widely varied reviews from local residents.

Some say it's a terrible place to live, while other say they love it and wouldn't live anywhere else.

One challenge is that the economy is mostly agri-based, with only so many ranch hands in demand.

There are a few local manufacturing plants, but most work in service- and government-related jobs.

As a town of about 6,000 people -- about 11,000 including the surrounding county -- it strikes me as pretty nice. The downtown area is tidy and varied, and the people are all very friendly. As a bonus, there's a pretty extensive set of walking trails around town, mostly on old converted rail beds. Our lengthy walk prompted Happy to give the town a paws up. It's worth a visit if you're in the area.

In the morning, I will head toward Malta, MT, the last stop before the northern border… Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 191: Central-Central Montana

Out of Livingston, MT, US191 remains co-signed with I-90 for a 30-mile stint going east.

It's a wide-open road that truly serves as the backbone throughout the state. It's also an excellent example of something I know I've mentioned before: River-Rail-Road

Because rivers typically follow shallow changes in altitude and have — over the eons — carved wide valleys, railroads were very often built to follow them. When auto roads were built in later years, it made sense to follow the same basic pathways.

As you can see in this screen shot from my onboard mapping system, in this area all three of them run more or less parallel within a half mile of each other.

At Big Timber, MT, US191 turns north, leaves I-90 and crosses the rails and river.

For a few miles, you are entertained by the "Crazy Mountains" which are so named, I would bet, because it is crazy that they're there. In the middle of nowhere and pretty far from any other significant mountains, these 11,000 foot peaks are clumped together by themselves.



Continuing north after that, the landscape is mostly rolling hills, with vast grasslands, herds of cattle, a few wind turbine farms and even fewer tiny settlements. Another hundred miles of "out there."



I've called this "Central-Central Montana" because it really is pretty much equidistant east-west and north-south. It's very pretty in the summer, but notoriously cold, snowy and windy in the winter.



I've stopped in the small town of Lewistown, MT, in which the locals have all told me there isn't much to see or do. I'm betting I can fill a day's worth of exploration anyway, so I'm going to stay here tomorrow... Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 191: Paradise Valley, MT

It was such a beautiful drive up the Gallatin River valley from West Yellowstone, that I decided to check out the Yellowstone River valley down to the Park's north gate in Gardiner, MT.

The road definitely did not disappoint... It's called "Paradise Valley" for a reason! (Click to embiggen)



Stunning views for 50 miles going south, then the flip-side views coming back north... What a drive!

Gardiner is a pretty typical tourist mecca, packed with wilderness adventure companies -- offering whitewater rafting, horse pack trips, extreme fishing, etc. -- and the usual assortment of motels, lodges, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, etc. I only stayed there long enough to have lunch, take Happy for a long walk and share an ice cream. (Of which my dog ate well more than her half!)

Although I have thoroughly enjoyed my time in the Livingston area -- and will happily come back for a longer visit some day -- I'm going to push north tomorrow. With all the Fourth of July rodeos and other festivities coming up at the end of the week, it's going to get crazy and crowded around here.

I'll be heading up into the hinterlands of Central Montana, nearing the completion of this road trip at the Canadian border... Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 191: Pine Creek Lodge

Ten miles south of Livingston, MT -- and just a half mile up the hill from my campground -- is an unexpected culinary treasure. I was referred to Pine Creek Lodge by my campground hosts when I asked if there was anyplace to eat in the nearby area. At first glance when I pulled up, I figured it was going to be a typical "lodge" with mediocre food and rustic ambiance. I was totally wrong.

It's a small place, with a half-dozen tables inside and a few more on a deck outside for use in warm weather. There's also a small bar with five stools, just the kind of spot I like.

Scott runs a quiet, efficient operation, the kind where it's obvious people know what they're doing.

Katrina is a delightful hostess and server, helpful with suggestions about the menu and perfectly attentive.

The menu is one-page, but surprising in it's breadth of offerings. The food descriptions are simple and concise, but make it clear that there's a real chef in the kitchen, not just a cook.

My dinner was perfectly delicious, an impossibly fresh garden salad followed by the kind of melt-in-your-mouth ribs that can only be accomplished by skill and time. In addition to al dente seasonal vegetables and a tasty potato portion, the plating included a delightfully unexpected black bean and corn garnish. Not your typical "lodge" food by a long shot!

If you're ever in the Livingston area -- for which I reprise my enthusiasm -- be sure to make the short drive down the valley to eat at Pine Creek Lodge. There's no better way to finish off a good day of exploration than by having a great meal at an unexpected culinary treasure!

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US Hwy 191: Sheep Wagon

This "Sheep Wagon" at the Yellowstone Gateway Museuem is typical of what Montana shepherds hauled from site to site and stayed in while their flocks grazed nearby. Built in the early 1900's, it is based on the centuries-old Gypsy wagons of Europe and later adapted to accommodate rubber tires.

Plus or minus a few amenities, it looks a lot like the interior of my modern camper... Sign me up!



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US Hwy 191: Livingston, MT

Livingston, MT, is a delightfully charming little town. The clean, tidy, historic downtown area has a lively and prosperous feel to it that's a very welcome relief from all the broken down towns I've so recently seen. The mountain backdrop only adds to its appeal, even on a rainy and overcast day.



Livingston was born with the arrival of the railroads and became an important depot in cross-country rail service. Freight still runs through here, but discontinuation of passenger trains made the stunning 1902 depot building available to become the Livingston Depot Center and the town's centerpiece.



The well restored interior offers a glimpse into what was once the grandeur of rail travel. Extensive exhibits chronicle every age and stage of railroad history, with special focus on Livingston's role in it.



Across the tracks and a few blocks away is the Yellowstone Gateway Museuem which shares county's broader history.

It's a well above average local museum, with wide-ranging displays of settlers' life, local luminaries and native history.

There's an especially nice exhibit about the Lewis & Clark expedition in the area.



When Clark reached the Yellowstone River here, he described it as "wide, bold, rapid and deep."

On its bank is located Livingston's third jewel, a beautiful little town park named in honor of Sacajawea.

An elegant statue depicts her and her son on horseback while the animal drinks from the river.

The surrounding playgrounds, ball fields and picnic shelters are all tidy and inviting. A walking trail along the river offers a delightful stroll.

To say the least, I like Livingston a lot and strongly recommend it as a place to visit, enjoy and relax.

The skies are clearing, the temperatures are cool and the people are very friendly. There's a great little coffee shop, a few tasty looking restaurants and even a tiny downtown movie theater.

With all that on offer, I plan to stay here for another couple of days… Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 191: South-Central Montana

Driving north from West Yellowstone into South-Central Montana, US191 is simply a beautiful drive. Despite the residual clouds and overcast from last night's rain, I think you can see what I mean.



For nearly 100 miles, the route meanders next to the Gallatin River. It's in a lush green valley with Alpine hills all around and some majestic mountains in the distance. What's not to love?



The river is famous for fishing, verified by a large number of anglers parked at various access points. The river is also popular for rafting, and I saw numerous groups bundled and huddled in their craft.



Once reaching the city of Bozeman, MT, US191 joins I-90 going east for a short stint over a modest pass. At the town of Livingston, I drove a few miles south to a lovely little campground.



In very short order, my rig was set up and Happy was curled up in her comfy little doghouse. We just took a lengthy walk around the property which sits right on the banks of the Yellowstone River.



I think it's safe to say we'll stay here for a few days to enjoy the scenery and check out the area... Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 191: Can Ya Blame Me?

I'm taking an extra day to just hang out (and watch the World Cup game) at my camp in this valley…

Can ya blame me?



I plan to hit the road again tomorrow (or maybe the next day)… Stay tuned!

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Happy: We Found A Note!

Hi!... I'm Happy... I'm always Happy... Today I'm happy because we found a note!

When Macgellan was cleaning out our truck the other day, he found a note from one of the new young friends I've made on this road trip. Here's what it says:

In the short time I have known Happy, she became my inspiration. In life we do not always get a second chance. Happy went from being an unwanted and unloved dog to being amazing. She was saved and given a second chance. She was given the chance to do something spectacular with her life and she did it.

I recently got a second chance to do something, but after failing at it the first time, I have been hesitant as to how I will do this second time. Meeting Happy and learning her story has given me the courage to know that sometimes even though the first time at something may not work out, the second chance could be exactly what you need.

Happy is an amazing dog. I'm glad she got a second chance, and I have never been so thankful before for meeting a dog.

The best of wishes, Tara

Thanks very much for your note, Tara. I'm sorry it has taken so long for us to find it in our truck!

Always remember that the world is mostly full of good people who will help you out and give you a second chance when you need it. I hope your second chance is working out well and would love to hear from you about it in the future!

Love, Happy

US Hwy 191: "Unsigned" US Highways

In addition to US191, there are several US Highways which pass through Yellowstone National Park. Among them are US14, US16, US89, US287 and the portion of my old friend US20 that I was not able to drive in April 2013 due to it still being closed for the winter.

Technically speaking, these Highways are "unsigned" in Yellowstone, which simply means that there are none of the typically ubiquitous route signs along the roadways. It also means -- again, very technically speaking -- that they aren't actually considered to be US Highways within the Park.

The reason for this is that US Highways are required to be open for driving at all times. Since all roads in Yellowstone are closed in winter, they do not comply with US Highway requirements.

How do you get around a failure to comply? You say the rule doesn't apply to you. Hence, US Highways in Yellowstone are "unsigned" and therefore aren't actually US Highways. Got it?

Thankfully, GPS mapping systems either don't know or don't care about this technicality. All through the park, your map display will show the US Highway numbers. For example, here's a photo of my display just after I passed the intersection of US191 and US20.



The moment you drive out of Yellowstone, however, it's back to business as usual. Exiting the Park in West Yellowstone, you're greeted with all the appropriate US Highway signs to guide you on your merry way. Since you've also just crossed a state border, there's also a welcome to Montana!



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US Hwy 191: Yellowstone Express

I've been to Yellowstone National Park before and didn't really care for it, so my only purpose in passing through was to follow the route of US191 across its southwest corner as fast as possible.

The moment I arrived at the south entrance, I pretty much knew what my drive was going to be like. From there, the road is a long, narrow, uphill slog with lots of blind corners and cyclists to deal with.



The main reason I don't particularly like Yellowstone is that it just isn't that pretty. Because of its altitude, it's mostly scrub pines, bare rock and a few lakes. There are so many other, lesser known and visited areas that are just so much prettier in my book. Looking at the quantity of vehicles on the road, in every turn out and marginal parking spot, I'm obviously in the minority opinion on that score.



One amusing factor, however, is that because of how the road is laid out, it crosses the continental divide three times over the course of just a couple of miles. I grabbed shots of two signs, but missed the third because my hands were busy with the wheel to avoid a collision. The traffic was crazy.



The most famous of Yellowstone's features has got to be Old Faithful, for which -- in the photo below left -- the sign says to keep right. I took the left lane and viewed a few of the caldera's many other geothermal areas in passing. I kept saying to myself, "Don't stop when you're on a roll!"



From there, the road follows the Firehole River downhill, eventually exiting the park at its western edge. The total road distance between the south and west entrances is about 70 miles. I drove it in just about two hours, which is a pretty impressive "express" pace considering the conditions. Upon reflection, I think it's quite possible that I have logged the shortest visit ever to Yellowstone Park!

I'm now camped in a lovely valley just west of the park. I plan to stay here for a couple of days to relax and enjoy the beautiful Montana landscape and skies... Stay tuned!

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