Logbook: Antarctica II - Part 2

The weather on Thursday had been so spectacular that the change on Friday seemed especially extreme. I am quite sure it was not a bad day by Antarctic standards, but it was sufficiently cold, windy, wet, snowy and dark that we got a pretty good sense of how bad it can get down here. I think it also struck home why this is Polar Star’s last trip to Antarctica for the season: We’re moving well into autumn and it only gets a lot worse from now on. So, with pretty much all of my hi-tech storm gear on, I boarded the Zodiac in the morning and landed at Brown Bluff -- noteworthy because it is physically located on the actual Antarctic continent (i.e. as opposed to our landings on nearby islands). With ceremonial foot steps taken in the water and on the beach, I was happy to make it a short landing and joined the majority of my fellow passenger for a pre-curfew return ride to the ship. Hot soup at lunch was tasty indeed! In the afternoon we approached and landed on Paulet Island where we visited the ruins of a hut where Larsen and his 19 crew spent a winter before being rescued. Pretty much it is a pile of rocks that make you glad you live elsewhere. Again, I admit I made short work of the landing and headed back to the ship.

During the evening we navigated through increasingly thick ice fields and by Saturday morning we were anchored off Snow Hill Island and ready for our amphibious assault. The weather was actually colder than the day before, but it didn’t seem as windy or nasty. Plus, being able to go inside the intact, heated and manned historic hut of the Nordenskjold expedition offered a welcome weather break. The hut is small and cozy, and I can easily imagine seven men spending two years there in relative comfort. Important safety tip: Planning an Antarctica stay and bringing your own building is a lot better than being shipwrecked and having to make a survival hut out of local rocks. Don’t say I didn’t warn you!

In the afternoon we cruised deeper into the ice with hopes of landing at Devil Island, but despite the awesome power of Polar Star -- and the amazing skills of the crew -- we reached an impassable ice obstacle. Maneuvering around in the ice was entertainment enough, so the day was a indeed a success. Overnight we headed into the Southern Ocean where the seas started to get more lively, and our day at sea on Sunday was sufficiently rough that moving around the ship was often a challenge. So, I happily spent the day hanging out, doing some iLife and viewing the tempest from my warm, dry cabin. Yesterday morning we anchored off Signy Island -- one of the South Orkney Islands -- and made a landing at Signy Base of the British Antarctic Survey. All of the scientists had left for the season, and the remaining men were the facilities team in the process of closing down the base for winter. I had a nice tour of the facilities, a walk among the resident fur seals and a Zodiac tour of the nearby coastline on the way back to the ship. The afternoon was spent steaming amidst the chain of Islands and many, many huge and beautiful icebergs. Once again, it is a stunning sight that cannot be captured in pictures and, frankly, I didn’t even try. I happily sat bundled up on deck and watched the awesome scenery go by. Another experience I will never forget and one I strongly recommend. Today has been a day at sea -- The Scotia Sea -- as we head toward South Georgia Island.

“I have seen the sea when it is stormy and wild;
When it is quiet and serene; when it is dark and moody.
And in all its moods, I see myself.”
-- Martin Buxbaum