Parks Highway Mini Road-Trip

My good friend Greg flew into Fairbanks to join me for a five-day mini road trip down to Anchorage. We chose the Parks Highway route -- down the "west-corridor" -- primarily because it runs past Denali park and Greg was hoping to get a look at the great mountain.

Our first stop was a famous roadside attraction, an old sofa with a bunch of stuffed animals on it. Although I've driven the Parks Hwy many times during my winters in Alaska, I've never seen this oddity before -- because it's always been either dark, a blizzard or covered in snow -- so I'm glad to be able to check it off my "life list."

We also made a stop at a very typical Alaska bar/saloon/tavern/eatery. Greg got a kick out of how corny it was, and a big laugh from the fact that I've become so accustomed to the way things are around here that I didn't even notice. I got him back by making him stand in the middle of the room while I took his picture, without telling him that he'd grown antlers. Yeah, dumb and childish, I know... But still funny.

It was pretty overcast when we got to Denali park, and the mountain was hardly visible. Greg said, "Take my picture anyway!" A few minutes later, the clouds parted for just a bit and I was also able to grab a shot in which you can kinda see it. Denali truly lives up to its name as "the great one."

Our next stop was the metropolis of Talkeetna, which Greg had read so much about as the major support center for Denali climbing expeditions, air support, etc. He sat on a bench in front of the general story and said, "I want to sit here a while and take it all in!" He hopped up about thirty seconds later. "Okay, I've got it. Let's go." We spent the night in a nearby campground and passed a "bush airport" the next morning. Greg is certain his flying buddies won't believe that's a runway.

We next stopped in Willow, where Greg declared that he really likes truck camping... So long as somebody else does all the driving and work. Good old Greg! He asked me to show him where the Iditarod starts, and had a hard time believing that a hundred vehicles and a thousand dogs were gathered on the lake behind him when it was frozen solid only two months ago.

We had a great time together, as always, and I'm happy to add Alaska to the long list of places that Greg and I have traveled together!

Retreat To Fairbanks!

The weather turned decidedly nasty as I was leaving Circle City, so I beat a hasty retreat to Fairbanks... Non-stop! I've checked back in to the Express, where all my friends were sad to hear my travels were cut short but happy to see me again so soon.

I'm going to stay here this week to get Darth his check-up and service, plus a bunch of other who knows what. I'm sure there must be something in Fairbanks that I haven't seen or done yet.

My good friend Greg is due here next week, for a week of what I am sure will be our usual antics. The only "plan" we have is based on the fact that he is flying in to Fairbanks and out of Anchorage. So, we'll obviously be heading down one of the two highways -- Parks or Ridhardson -- that connect the two cities.

Stay tuned!

Circle City AK

Fortunately, the ice on the Yukon River near Circle City did not break-up while I was there. The more I heard about the flooding that usually accompanies break-up, the less I liked the sound of it. So, I took the advice of the local experts and got out of there first thing in the morning.

I shot a little bit of video to give you a feeling for the place. The Yukon is so immense -- even as far upstream as Circle City -- that it's very impressive and a bit intimidating, especially when you're worried about it marooning you in Circle City!

Steese Highway -- Circle City

I've often said that most people who visit Alaska don't really get to see the real Alaska. They usually sail through beautiful SE Alaska on a cruise ship, arrive in charming Seward, take the train to Anchorage, then continue up through majestic Denali to Fairbanks and fly home. Along that pathway, Alaska is indeed beautiful, charming, majestic and well developed. Throughout much of the rest of the state... Well, not so much.

I mean no disrespect, of course, but let's be honest. Most of the remote villages are pretty basic affairs, with only as much development and "spiffing up" as they really need. It costs so much to transport anything out to them that you spend all your money on necessities, not on appearances. Okay?

With that said, I offer you a glimpse of Circle City, at the end of the Steese Highway and on the banks of the mighty Yukon River.

It's altogether possible that the guys in that last photo are pretty much always hanging out by the river, but let's give them the benefit of the doubt and say that it's because I arrived in Circle City on a very special day. As you can see, the river behind them still has quite a bit of ice on it, and the spring break-up of the ice on the Yukon is a really big deal. It marks the moment when the river becomes navigable again for supplies, fishing, tourists, etc.

There was quite a bit of hub-bub when I arrived, because the locals have a huge betting pool on when, exactly, break-up will occur. From many years of observation and experience, those in the know were predicting that tonight might just be the night! Shortly after I arrived, what seemed like the whole town had gathered at the river's edge with hopes of witnessing the big event.

As you might imagine, I was quite keen to be there and join in the festivities. Until, that is, I was told by a very helpful native that if break up occurred while I was there, I would probably be marooned there for a few weeks! Apparently, break-up does such a fine job of releasing pent up water in the river that it floods much of the surrounding area, including large nearby stretches of the Steese Highway which is the only way out of here.

My new best friend suggested I park my rig on the highest ground in town, sleep with one ear open for the sounds of break-up and get out in a hurry if it happens. I intend to heed his advice on all counts and, even if break-up does not occur tonight, I plan to haul ass out of here in the morning. There's only so much time I can spend in remote Alaskan villages, and "a few weeks" isn't it!

Steese Highway -- Day 3

Back down at lower altitude, the road suddenly became a lot more... um... interesting. For one thing, I crossed a number of bridges which are -- thankfully -- better than they appear. I also had to pass over many stretches of dirt road that were pretty stinkin' soft due to surface-only thawing. (The ground not far below is still frozen and doesn't drain!)

At one point, I got out of my truck and took a good, long look at what I was about to drive over... or perhaps through is a better word. After all we've been through together, I have total confidence in my "Road Rig"... But sometimes you just want to make sure you're not asking too much from the laws of physics!

The "crossing" was a bit dicey but successful. I actually faced some worse spots further along, but didn't even bother to check them out. Go Darth!

Steese Highway -- Day 2

I headed up and over the pass today. As you can see, the road at altitude is not quite clear yet. The road has switched from pavement to gravel, but it's pretty solid and good to drive on.

On a roadside bulletin board I found a good example of Alaska humor -- and spelling -- that I thought I'd share with you:

Steese Highway -- Day 1

After two more days of freezing rain in Fairbanks, I finally hit the road on the Steese Highway this morning. As advertised, it was a nice, easy drive on a well paved road. As you can see -- on these images from my "DashCam" -- it is barely spring up here. The roads are clear and dry, but so are the trees!

I'd asked around before leaving Fairbanks and everyone told me that I must stop at a particular campground, that it is by far the best and most popular in the area. I found it with no problem and pulled in, also finding that it was completely empty. Not another soul was there! I had the entire campground to myself, so I picked the best spot and settled in for the night.

I guess it really is very early in the season if nobody else is out camping yet!

Steese Highway

For the first leg of my Alaskan Summer travels, I've decided to drive the Steese Highway from Fairbanks to Circle and back.

The Steese Highway is a highway in the Interior region of the U.S. state of Alaska that extends 161 miles (259 km) from Fairbanks to Circle, a town on the Yukon River about 50 miles (80 km) south of the Arctic Circle. The highway was completed in 1927 and is named for U.S. Army General James G. Steese, a former president of the Alaska Road Commission. It is paved for about the first 60 miles (97 km) and around the town of Central and gravel for the remainder, much of it narrow and winding. (From Wikipedia)

There are several factors for me in choosing the Steese. First is that it is one of the few roads in Alaska that I have not yet driven, and thus an area that I have not seen. Second, most folks around here say that it is really pretty and that getting to the mighty Yukon River is a treat. Third, and perhaps most important, is that it's a nearby road in case the weather turns lousy and I have to beat a hasty retreat.

That last factor may sound a bit silly after wintering here, but it's not really. Since both my truck and camper have been "de-winterized" I'm not well set up for really cold weather anymore. Plus, when the roads are frozen in winter they are far more passable than when they are muddy in spring. (Keep in mind that more military campaigns have failed miserably due to mud rather than snow!)

I've been told that it's pretty early yet to be embarking on Alaskan Summer travel, but my "Road Rig" is all ready to go and I'm going a bit stir crazy waiting here at the Express in Fairbanks. So, as soon as the current bit of nasty weather we're having clears up I'm going to get after it!

Alaskan Summer 2010 About To Begin

As promised, I took a couple of weeks off just to hang out and recharge from the winter in general and the Iditarod campaign in specific. Everyone -- human and canine -- is still in the Nome area on their Arctic Adventure tours, so it's been very quiet around here. I've wrapped up a few odds and ends, but mostly I've pretty much hibernated and watched the snow melt.

I have also just moved into "big town" Fairbanks, and am temporarily living at the Holiday Inn Express -- my home away from home! There was a brief window of opportunity when my camper was sufficiently unfrozen from the ground that I could get it free, but before the roads became so muddy that I wouldn't be able to drive it out. So, I timed it perfectly, packed up my stuff one day and headed into town. If I'd waited any longer, I think I'd be stuck there for another month or more.

I'm at the Express because I've taken my camper to a local RV service place to be "de-winterized" and overhauled, in preparation for some Alaskan summer traveling I have in mind. Imagine the entire contents of my camper dumped in a motel room and you'll have a pretty good picture of my situation. The staff here know me well from my various overnight visits during the winter, and they are being very nice about my situation.

I hope to hit the road sometime around the end of the month... Stay tuned!

Road Rig Rulz AK Winter!

As I wrap up my winter in Alaska, I just have to give props to my "Road Rig" for how outstandingly well it performed throughout the entire hardship tour.

First, Darth was fantastic, easily the MVP of the whole winter. He did everything I asked of him, from cold morning starts at -40F to middle-of-the-night rescue missions of other broken down vehicles at -70F. Whether he was carrying more than his share of Iditarod drop bags, or driving "back door" and carrying huge dog boxes on a caravan to Anchorage, the lad did it all with reliability, style and comfort for me. I never had a doubt about him and that peace of mind was worth a lot!

His reliability was especially important because we spent so much time out in the wilds on our own, often hundreds of miles from any other people or vehicles. Whether driving across blizzard-swept mountain roads, or waiting in remote locations -- where he often had to idle for hours at a time because there was no place to plug him in -- he never so much as gave an inkling of anything other than smooth running perfection. I know it may sound crazy to sing the praises of a truck, but when your life depends on him it only seems fair!

I also can't say enough good things about my Arctic Fox camper. The factory advertises that the camper is "good" below freezing down to about 20F. I can tell them now from extensive personal experience that the camper is "very good" down to about -20F, and quite comfortable down to -40F and below. True, you have to shove some insulation into the seams of the slide-out, add some weatherstripping to the door, forget about running water and a few things like that, but the heater keeps it toasty warm and that's pretty amazing. My camper may get less credit than my truck, but it is no less exceptional in performance.

With that, I'm officially wrapping up winter in Alaska. I'm cooking up ideas for what's next... Stay tuned!