Tuesday, August 07, 2012

US Hwy 30: On The Nebraska Prairie

After staying up really late on Sunday night to witness the spellbinding coverage of Curiosity's delivery to the surface of Mars, I got a later start than usual yesterday morning. The drive on US Hwy 30 was pretty much the same as it's been for a while, with a so-so roadway rolling through endless fields of semi-parched corn, punctuated by the occasional passing train and quick glimpses of farm towns that have seen better days. I was happy to make it a relatively short day of driving, and stopped near the small city of Grand Island.

After setting up WHQOMFTM -- my new acronym for "world headquarters of me for the moment" -- I went into town to have a quick look around and get supplies. Grand Island is a fairly bustling little city just north of the Platte River, with a wide open layout under expansive skies, and hardly a tree to be seen. It's not actually on an island, because it moved from its original location on a nearby island that was formed by the Platte and the Wood rivers.

Now here's one of those little factoids you learn by traveling with Macgellan: That island is alleged to have once been the largest inland island in the world, but it no longer exists because the Wood river no longer has a western connection to the Platte. Isn't that just the way life goes? One day you're the biggest in the world, and the next day you don't even exist! A cautionary tale, indeed!

Anyway, I was delighted to find that Grand Island has a modern multiplex cinema, so I took the opportunity to catch up on some popular culture last night by seeing the new Batman movie. It was pretty good, but I have to admit it kinda confused me about who's who and what's what now in that film franchise… Anybody else?

I got a proper start this morning and explored the area in earnest. There's a ton of history around here, based on the region's prominence in the Oregon Trail, the Pony Express, the Mormon Trail and all the other facets of westward expansion and development on the prairie.

One of the city's most prominent features is the Stuhr Museum of the Prairie which bills itself as "More than a museum… A living history experience!" That claim is backed up by an "authentic railroad town" whose precise time in history is apparently either uncertain or variable, as evidenced by the bolted-on date on it's welcome sign.



The mock town itself is quite expansive, covering several square blocks and including all sorts of establishments. These range from the eponymous railroad depot to shops for blacksmiths, milliners, hardware, dry goods and the like. There are also a school, a town hall, a marshall's office and a newspaper. Each building is staffed by a person in costume. I did my best to get in character by having a sarsaparilla at the Silver Dollar Saloon, though it was difficult to really feel the experience because I was the only visitor in the town. Once again, I had that kinda creepy feeling I was in a Twilight Zone episode!




Elsewhere on the Stuhr Museum campus is an exhibit building that houses a collection of prairie-life artifacts and displays. It's not a very extensive collection -- nor particularly well documented -- but it does offer a good overview of the area's history. All in all, the complex is worth the hour I was there.

A better museum offering is located a few miles south in the town of Hastings, aptly named the Hastings Museum. Housed in a surprisingly large facility for a small town, this well organized and very well documented collection provides a much fuller understanding of prairie life. In particular, I was impressed with descriptions of adaptations that settlers had to make when moving from life in the east. Mostly, though, the simple factors of thematic layout and organization combined with ample descriptive texts made for a very worthwhile few hours.



Among the various other sights in my exploration today, I saw a short, "actual, undisturbed" section of the Oregon Trail. It's hard to photograph a couple of ruts in the dirt, so you'll have to use your imagination. The local feed lot isn't very photogenic either.

It's been a good day on the Nebraska prairie. I'm headed farther west tomorrow… Stay tuned!

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Sunday, August 05, 2012

US Hwy 30: Missouri River Bridge

Just a couple of miles west of Onawa, Iowa, lies the small town of Decatur, Nebraska. To get there, you have to cross this old bridge over the Missouri River. It's not a very reassuring sight as you approach it, and the loose steel grate decking isn't the most stable as you drive across. The toll is $1 each way. Such a deal!

US Hwy 30: Onawa, IA

You might not be impressed when you first drive into Onawa, IA, despite what is claimed to be "The widest main street in the United States." I'll admit it's pretty wide, but the widest? Not for sure.



The town's second claim -- that "Onowa, Iowa" has the highest ratio of vowels to consonants of any city/state name -- is similarly both intriguing and suspect to me. Surely there's some place in Hawaii that's at least in the running, no?

What is undisputed, however, is that Onawa is the birthplace of the Eskimo Pie!

In 1920, a young customer of ice cream shop owner Chris Nelson could not decide between an ice cream sandwich and a chocolate bar. So, Nelson created a chocolate covered ice cream bar which he originally called the "I-Scream-Bar". In 1921 Nelson entered into an agreement with Russell Stover to market and produce the product, and the creation was put on a stick in 1934. The handwritten agreement is part of a display at the Monona County Historical Museum in Onawa.



The rest of the Historical Museum is an amusing collection of "oldish stuff" from the area. There are a few items of note, but it's mostly a hodgepodge with limited documentation and organization. The same is true for the modest Railway Museum, next door at the town's "museum complex."

The Veteran's Memorial Museum, on the other hand, is a real gem. An excellent and substantial collection -- spanning every US war from the Civil War up to the present -- is very well organized, documented and maintained. Veterans of several wars and service branches were on hand, and I found them to be well-informed and engaging. This small but excellent museum is worth a visit if you're anywhere near the area.




I can't say much about another of the town's main attractions -- the Lewis & Clark state park -- because the only thing I was able to see during my visit was a replica of the expedition's keel boat. A large new building is under construction which looks like it is planned to be a historical facility.

So, despite first impressions, there's actually quite a bit of merit to the Onawa area, including a few good places to eat and drink, a nice lake for recreation and some pretty scenery. I've enjoyed my couple of days here and am well prepared to continue west tomorrow… Stay tuned!

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Saturday, August 04, 2012

US Hwy 30: Corn Report

It's not obvious in the photos I've posted recently, but there really is a serious drought in effect around here. I've heard that corn is involved in about 80% of the overall food supply, so a severely damaged corn crop is sure to have profound implications going forward. I'm certainly no expert on corn, but I'm sure this doesn't look good.



Speaking of corn -- which everyone around here is doing a lot of these days -- I learned a few things in conversation during a nice dinner I had last night at a surprisingly good local joint called the Green Lantern. Sitting at the bar, I struck up my usual lively conversation with several delightful local folks, including one man who is a farmer. In addition to gaining a little insight about the effects of drought at different stages of the plants' growth, I was able to ask about a couple of things I'd seen that were a bit of a mystery to me.

The first explains why I saw some corn that had received what I referred to as a "haircut." It's actually called "detasseling" which removes the pollen-producing flowers -- the tassels -- from the tops of corn. It is a part of pollination control, used especially to cross-breed or hybridize two varieties of corn.



The second has to do with what I called "missing rows" at a far greater frequency than I could attribute to mechanical failure in the planting process. If I understand correctly, there are distinct male and female corn plants, with every fifth row being the males. By leaving out that row, the females can be cross-pollenated in a controlled manner for the specific hybridizing that is desired.



Besides reminding me that botany is so obviously my weakest science, these factoids also served to explain why I'd seen so many placards with different numbers positioned at the ends of various corn rows. Hybridizing is a big part of the corn agri-business, and the "scientists" are always trying different combinations. As the farmer described it from his perspective, "They mix and match our crops, stick numbers on them, get lucky with a cross-breed, then sell us back the seeds at higher prices." I still don't know much about corn, but that's certainly a way of doing business that I understand completely!

So, there's your corn report from the ongoing Voyages of Macgellan!

I'm about to head into the town of Onawa, IA, to do some exploring… Stay tuned!

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Friday, August 03, 2012

US Hwy 30: Iowa Express

While planning my day over coffee this morning, I had the idea to make it a short-drive day and stop somewhere in the middle of Iowa to see what I might find. The road west of Cedar Rapids is really quite good -- for a change! -- and I made good time. The miles flew under me through one vast farmland and the next and the next and the next and the next and the next and the next...



Besides passing through the occasional, tiny agricultural town, the drive was punctuated by charming little roadside cemeteries carved out of corn fields, mile-long trains that make their way nearby, and slow-moving farm vehicles that require some timing and horsepower to pass.





Before I knew it, I was well beyond my intended mid-state stopping point and barreling down the road toward Iowa's western border with Nebraska on the Missouri River. I stopped for lunch in my usual kind of place, then decided to just keep cruising on down the road. I'm glad I did, because I've found a nice campground, on a lake, with an available spot in the shade for my road rig.



I've been told that there are some fine sights and noteworthy history here in Onawa, IA, so I plan to check it out over the weekend… Stay tuned!

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Thursday, August 02, 2012

US Hwy 30: Urbana, IA

Despite it being almost a hundred degrees outside, I rode my bike into the town of Urbana, IA, just to see what's what. I covered the entire town in only a few minutes and found there's absolutely nothing doing there. In fact, it was so quiet that I got kind of an eerie "Twilight Zone" feeling.

I did find one place that was open, offering food and drink in an enticing atmosphere, complete with the mid-day news weatherman offering an extremely detailed drought update on two big screen TVs!
(That's one TV for every three people in the joint!)



Who says Macgellan isn't living large!... Stay tuned!

US Hwy 30: Back On Track

Yesterday morning I drove the short distance south from my overnight camp to rejoin US Hwy 30. I know this picture doesn't look like much, but it was good to see the familiar route signs again and to know that I was getting back on track.



You may recall that I left US Hwy 30 a bit east of Chicago and have rejoined somewhat west of the city. So, technically speaking, I have omitted about 100 miles of my coast-to-coast coverage of the highway. All things considered about driving my rig through the dense -- and reportedly very difficult -- urban roadways, I'm cutting myself some slack on conformance to initial plan.

The drive through western Illinois was generally scenic, mostly offering views of substantial farms and their roadside facilities.



The roadway itself was decent is some places, and pretty miserable in many others. US Hwy 30 is a very old route, and many of the road beds show signs of not being improved for many decades. The basic construction is concrete slabs, heavily patched and seam-sealed, which results in a pretty rough, undulating surface. Between the solid suspension of my long-bed truck and the extended length of my camper sled, it felt like we pretty much bounced our way across the state.

Every now and then, the route passes through small towns in widely varying condition. A few are fairly tidy, showing some signs of prosperity and even a bit of technological modernity.



Other towns give the impression of having lost their battle with aging, and bespeak the effects of being quite literally "passed by" over time.



In this area, Interstate 80 runs parallel to US Hwy 30 only about 20 miles to the south. No matter how much of a main thoroughfare this old highway once was, it is impossible to compete with the efficiency of a modern interstate. The roadway itself and the towns along it have clearly suffered from long term economic deprivation, even neglect.

In due course, I crossed the Mississippi River and entered the state of Iowa. Despite the fancy sign, warm welcome and modern bridge, the roadway and towns continued in the same fashion throughout my approach to the medium-sized city of Cedar Rapids.



In contrast to all of my previous US Highway expeditions -- where RV parks have been numerous all along the routes -- US Hwy 30 has offered very few places in close proximity to the road to stop for the night. In this area there have been none available, a condition which I suspect is due to the same economic effects of the nearby interstate now carrying the bulk of the traffic.

Whatever the reason, I diverted about 20 miles north of Cedar Rapids to find a tidy RV park just across the interstate from the small town of Urbana. After two solid days on the road, I'm taking today to catch up with myself and check out the surroundings… Stay tuned!

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Tuesday, July 31, 2012

US Hwy 30 -- Detour: Southern Repositioning

I was up and out in proper order this morning to drive south out of Door county. The road mostly passes by tidy, prosperous looking farms and through a number of inviting lakeside towns which -- I will admit -- strengthened my interest in returning for an extended stay sometime in the future.




I had hoped to drive far enough south to rejoin US Hwy 30 today, but a three hour traffic jam in Milwaukee pretty much scuttled that plan. My experience of Wisconsin's roads is that they're generally pretty crummy, and that combined with extensive construction throughout Milwaukee to make a complete mess.

Past that debacle and into northern Illinois the roads were not much better, still cruising past relatively prosperous looking farms but trading pretty shoreline villages for post-industrial, broken down little towns. Taken as a whole, I'd have to call it a wash: A necessary "repositioning" day on the road to set myself up to rejoin US Hwy 30 west tomorrow… Stay tuned!

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Monday, July 30, 2012

US Hwy 30 -- Detour: Door County Update

This past week has really flown by here at my friends' Wagon Trail Campground -- A truly lovely facility with large campsites set far apart and deep in the woods. It's a lot more like a national park than a typical RV park, and I've had a really nice few days to hang out, catch up with myself and visit with my friends. I've also done a little bit of exploring in the area, but besides saying it is a beautiful part of the world I don't have much to report.



To be completely honest, it would be very easy for me to stay here for an extended period of time, maybe even for an entire season. Right now, however, it's been too short a time since my previous "long stay" in Pennsylvania and I'm feeling the pull of being on the road. Plus, I've got some stuff to do out in the Pacific Northwest that I can't keep putting off. So, I've added a season in Door County to the list for the future and am packing up my gear to hit the road tomorrow… Stay tuned!

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Monday, July 23, 2012

US Hwy 30 -- Detour: Lake Michigan Marine Highway

After a couple of fun days with Jake at Interlochen, I hit the road very early yesterday morning to make my way to Door County, Wisconsin. I really didn't want to have to drive the long way around Lake Michigan -- especially not through Chicago -- so I was very happy to find a ferry service across the lake from Ludington to Manitowoc.

The SS Badger is a 1950's era coal-fired ferry, the last of fourteen ships from the original car ferry fleet. It remains a very active crossing vessel, carrying lots of cargo in addition to tourists and other various passengers. Darth and the rest of my road rig looked pretty good -- and got the usual number of intrigued looks -- as he was driven off the ferry by a member of the ship's crew.



One of the most interesting aspects of the ferry is that it is still officially part of US Hwy 10, as you can see by the Google map routing. The US10 symbol is also painted on the ship. Pretty cool!

My slightly indirect route north through Appleton was for the purpose of picking up my niece Jennifer, who took a bus from Chicago to join me for a couple of days. We are now at the Wagon Trail Campground -- without doubt one of the very best campgrounds anywhere -- and being very well looked after by the owners, my good friends Dick & Cheri.

Jennifer has taken my bike to go exploring while I catch up with myself. I trust our combined shenanigans will continue apace this evening… Stay tuned!

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