US Hwy 30: Mid-Wyoming

US Hwy 30 heading west from Laramie is a sad and lonely road, victim once again to the disuse and semi-disrepair that comes from being so close to an interstate. Nevertheless, it offers dramatic and powerful vistas that one can imagine once put no small amount of trepidation in the minds of westward bound settlers. I was not without concern in my comfortable, reliable, diesel powered rig!



Pretty much in the middle of nowhere lies the town of Medicine Bow, which consists almost exclusively of a small museum and a hotel that is clearly struggling to stay in business. The attraction of both -- and of the town itself -- is that Owen Wister wrote his famous novel The Virginian based on his experiences in the area.



The Virginian is widely considered the first true western, a novel which paved the way for many more westerns by famous authors such as Zane Grey, Louis L'Amour and others. The nice ladies in the museum were ardent that the Virginian was an actual local cattleman known to Wister, but other sources suggest the character is a composite creation of Wister's, based on a type of local man he encountered. The nice young lady at the hotel bar was equally ardent that I have a cup of her tomato soup with the excellent BLT she made for me. In both cases of ardency, I acquiesced.

A bit farther west, US Hwy 30 is subsumed into I-80, though the road retains multiple designations. At various places, the original highway roadbed is visible -- seen on right in this photo -- and is generally no more than a gravel service road or sometimes even less than that.



The interstate roadway was no great treat for the 100+ miles I was on it today, made less pleasant by gusting winds and very swiftly passing trucks that often gave me my own experience of high plains drifting. I've stopped for the day in the small city of Green River and plan to take a look around tomorrow… Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30: Laramie, Wyoming

I had a nice, easy drive north from Fort Collins to rejoin US Hwy 30, then a short stint west to Laramie, Wyoming. I'm on the "high plains" now, for which wide open prairies and strong gusting winds are the two most prominent features. Laramie is a truly "old west" town that claims to have some thirty thousand residents, though it is also a college town so those ranks must swell during the academic year.

Upon arrival yesterday, I walked around the "old town" for a bit, then took advantage of the typical college town breadth of offerings to have a surprisingly excellent Thai food lunch. I also visited the local plains museum, which was good but a little repetitious for me at this point in my westward migration. I capped off my evening with a trip to the local movie house to see the new Bourne movie which I enjoyed very much.

I did some more exploring of the area today, and while there isn't a lot to see I found the well restored old Territorial Prison to be a treat.

The prison dates back to 1872 and was expanded over time to hold as many as 170 of the "most violent and desperate outlaws during Wyoming's territorial days and early statehood." One of the most famous inmates was Butch Cassidy, though one learns that was not his real name and the movie about him is almost entirely fiction. As the exhibits put it, there is a big difference between "real life and reel life!"

The interior of the prison is very well restored, and the various rooms -- cells, kitchen, dining hall, infirmary, workshop, etc. -- are all set up in period-authentic conditions. The facility is worth a visit, even if you're just passing through the area.

I'm going to head farther west through Wyoming tomorrow, but don't yet know how far… Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30 -- Detour: Charlie!

I just had a visit with my favorite horse -- Charlie! -- here in Fort Collins.

He was all decked out in his "anti-fly" gear, looking quite mysterious but also quite comfortable in his new home.

We didn't have much of a conversation, of course. I'm not as interesting as hay, and he hasn't got much to say.

So, I gave him a pat and he didn't try to bite my face off. That's about as far as horses and I go.

Any minute now I expect to hear from Sam about where I'm meeting her -- and maybe some of her friends -- for a farewell dinner... Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30 -- Detour: Fort Collins, Colorado

I got settled in Fort Collins on Saturday afternoon, then met my young friend Samantha for dinner. It was fun to catch up on current events -- since it's only been six weeks since we spent time together on the Pony Express -- and to find out that her horse Charlie is thriving in his new environs!

It was a beautiful day yesterday, so Sam suggested we go on a mini road trip into the mountains. We headed westerly from Fort Collins across ranch lands and rolling hills, then through the gorges and into Estes Park where we stopped for lunch.



I have to admit I didn't particularly care for Estes Park, mostly because it's very touristy and was extremely crowded. Sam suggested we continue further west then south to Grand Lake, via the summit road through Rocky Mountain National Park. As you can see on the right in this photo, the road climbs steeply and consistently up the mountains, giving Darth a good "off day" workout!



Many miles into the park we reached the highpoint. The road may look like it is on a saddle, but that's only because it is so high above the tree line and windswept. We are as high as anything around, a new personal best for Darth at 12,200 feet!



We worked our way down to Grand Lake, a quiet and very lovely place that I would happily visit again to spend some time. Rather than backtrack to Fort Collins, we decided to continue south quite a ways, then did a short stint east to clear the mountains and finished up with a northerly drive along the eastern slopes back to our starting point. It was a fantastic drive and we had a lot of fun along the way.

I'm taking care of some chores today, then hope to visit Charlie in his new abode. I'll be heading north again tomorrow, to rejoin US Hwy 30 and continue my westward expedition... Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30: Into Wyoming

It was chilly enough this morning that it felt good to put on a light jacket, and I started driving under overcast skies with strong cross winds. My road rig is very stable, but it does present enough of a broadside that heavily gusting wind can put sufficient sideways pressure on it to be felt in the steering. So, I took it easy on the road and covered the last fifty miles of western Nebraska.

The crossing into Wyoming is heralded only by a small sign, and without any noticeable change in the roadway or ambience. One of the things I like about my cross-country driving expeditions is getting to experience the subtle but continuous change of environment. The change from Nebraska into Wyoming is practically unnoticeable, but it's a huge shift from the beaches of Atlantic City!



About fifty miles into the state, I approached the capital city of Cheyenne, where I began a fifty mile detour south to Fort Collins, Colorado. I have positioned myself here for a few days to visit with friends and check up on my favorite horse!… Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30: Neb-grass-ka

Continuing west today, I crossed the line where cornfields gave way to grassland. It wasn't an abrupt line, but it was a noticeable change within the span of about an hour on the road. Notably, it correlates pretty closely with the change in time zones. At the risk of over-simplifying, I've moved from mid-west farming to western ranching. I've also been climbing the steppes as you can see in this photo, gaining almost two thousand feet for the day.



I've stopped for the night in Sidney, Nebraska, almost at the western border. Unlike my normal "family run" campground, I'm staying in what is much more of a "corporate" campground. That immense building you see behind my road rig is the massive flagship store of Cabela's.



Having a campground on site is a good idea. People have to travel long distances out here to get to the store, and having an RV park so handy makes it much easier for folks to make their shopping trip. It's an excellent facility, with full hook-ups, cable TV and blazing fast internet all included. There are even corrals for horses! I give a tip of the hat to Cabela's for smart thinking.

And what a store! The main hall is so huge it easily holds a three story tall mountain-scape with dozens of different stuffed game on display. I spent about an hour looking around the place and have concluded that if Cabela's doesn't have it, you probably don't need it!



Tomorrow, I'm going to drive another hundred miles west on US Hwy 30 to Cheyenne, Wyoming. From there I plan to make a little detour down to Fort Collins to visit with friends and check up on Charlie, the horse we delivered there a little over a month ago… Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30: Gothenburg, Nebraska

I've had a pleasant, amusing day here in Gothenburg, starting with the fact that I was here only six weeks ago! That's right, Kelsie and I stopped here for fuel on the return leg of our Pony Express expedition. How many travelers can say they've been to Gothenburg, Nebraska, even once, let alone twice in two months!

It was a beautiful day, and I made the requisite visit to the town's main attraction, an actual Pony Express depot that has been moved to this site in the local park. It's actually only the second floor of the original depot, there being no reason to have the lower level barn area on hand.



There are a few artifacts -- and many souvenirs -- inside, the most interesting to me being this advertisement from March 1860 newspapers in San Francisco:



I had a good chuckle, because except for the fact that I was never a "skinny wiry" young fellow, was never an expert rider and was not an orphan, I think I might have enjoyed work as a pony express rider. Long, hard days on the road, living by your wits and with an element of risk… What's not for me to like? Plus, $25 per week is pretty good for me!

Another highlight was an hour-long visit I had with these nice ladies at the town's historical museum. They were both born here -- one of them is descended from original 1860's settlers -- and I got pretty much the whole inside story about the town. The other 50 minutes we spent just having a lively conversation on a variety of topics and looking at a few of the artifacts.



Also today, I had a salad for lunch at a popular local diner, complete with "Dorothy Lynch" salad dressing, a popular French-style recipe that is native to Nebraska. The temperature wasn't too high, so I had a nice stroll around a nearby lake/park, then made a ten minute stop at the sod house which is the town's other main attraction.

I wrapped up my day with "Happy Hour" at McDonalds, where it seems the entire town goes every afternoon to get any beverage on the menu for a dollar. I had to settle for an iced mocha, due to the fact that McDonalds has not yet added Scotch whiskey to their offerings!

I'm continuing west tomorrow, and since I'm feeling like I may have reached my quota for Nebraska culture and history, I may re-enact a bit of the pony express myself… If you catch my meaning. Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30: Grains, Trains and Automobiles

I haven't given you a road picture in a few days, so here you go: Grains, trains and automobiles!



Suffice it to say that US Hwy 30 is remaining consistent in condition and ambiance. It's an amazing road, and despite its challenges I am thoroughly enjoying and benefitting from my travel on it.

Seriously, don't you have to just love driving through a town whose big claim to fame is that it's on the 100th meridian?

Between my lengthy visit to Pioneer Village this morning and my stop at the Archway Monument this afternoon, I didn't have much time left for driving. So, I've made it a short day and stopped in Gothenburg, Nebraska... Stay tuned!

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US Hwy 30: Archway Monument

If you've ever driven I-80 past Kearney, NE, you've probably driven right under the "Great Platte River Road Archway Monument" and continued on your way. Good call on your part. I made a short detour from my route on US Hwy 30 to check it out, and wish I'd skipped it.

The first gimmick about the place -- besides being built across the interstate, of course -- is that you get to meet an authentic frontiersman with whom I just had to have my picture taken. Then you go up the escalator -- armed with a self-guided audio tour headset -- and it's all downhill from there.



The self-guided tour is a superficial journey through the history of the area, briefly mentioning all the usual suspects and events. It's heavy on the sound and light special effects, and the audio track is a somewhat confusing mix of narration, diary readings, historical speeches and news flashes. It took me less than 30 minutes, and I could probably have done it in less.

If you're looking for an air conditioned break from the road, you can get lunch at McDonalds for less than the admission here. If you just love really gimmicky glitz without a lot of substance, then the Archway Monument might just be for you!

US Hwy 30: A National Treasure In Minden, NE

A few miles south of US Hwy 30 (and I-80) in Minden, NE, is a place called Pioneer Village. I'd seen a number of advertisements for it, but I was a little concerned that it would turn out to be a tourist trap. Here's the opening blurb from the website, see what you think:

"You have to see it to believe it! The largest private collection of Americana anywhere. The Pioneer Village complex comprises 28 buildings on 20 acres housing over 50,000 irreplaceable items of historical value, restored to operating order, arranged in groups and also in the chronological order of their development."

Sounds a little hinky, right? Well, as an ardent explorer I was undeterred and made the detour. When I got there and first saw the outside of the main building, however, it did occur to me that I might have made a mistake.



The moment I stepped inside, though, I knew I'd made the right move. Pioneer Village is for real, and it is truly a national treasure. Without doubt, it is the most awesome, astonishing collection of Americana I've ever seen. The first building alone is amazing, with row after row of vintage cars arranged in chronological order of development. Corresponding eras of old planes hang overhead.

As you leave the first room, you see this sign. In any other place you'd have to think they're kidding, but here there really are hundreds and hundreds of cars!

The next room continues your odyssey through time, with carriages, carts, wagons and wheelchairs. Every item has a descriptive placard, most including an original bill of sale, title, source, etc.



And the beat goes on, through all 28 buildings. There are buildings for farm equipment, tractors and trucks. There are trains and steam engines. Horse livery, a pony express station, a fully equipped school house and even a church. Room after room of period furniture and furnishings. Toys, tools and weapons. The telephone display alone is priceless, and in many buildings there are decade-by-decade displays like this collection of 50's dresses! (How many of these did you have, Mom?)



Being able to browse each extensive collection in chronological order provides a context that is unique and truly extraordinary. The place is so awesome that I had to take a few breaks during my visit. Sitting on a bench in the lovely green, you're still surrounded by incredible Americana.



If you are ever driving US Hwy 30 or I-80 through Nebraska, you absolutely must make a visit to Pioneer Village. If you're as astonished by it as I am and want to spend longer than a day there, don't worry… There's a little motel and RV Park right next to the facility!

You know that I've been to many, many museums all over the world. Without question, Pioneer Village is the most incredible collection I have ever seen anywhere!

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