Darth: R.I.P.

The insurance company declared Darth a total loss. He has gone to truck heaven. In memoriam, here are photos of Darth at three of his finest moments. He will be missed. May he rest in peace.




I've spent practically every minute of the past two weeks doing paperwork, making calls, looking at options, juggling finances and working on what's next. It's been a complicated, disruptive and exhausting experience, but I'm close to having a plan set in motion... Stay tuned!

Darth: Stolen and Stripped

No, I'm not kidding... No, this isn't a joke.

Sometime in the early morning hours of Friday, October 5th -- the day before I flew to Alaska -- my truck was stolen from a parking lot in Seattle. I held the scant hope that someone had just taken him for a joyride until I received a call last Friday that he had been found, almost entirely stripped.



On the outside, it's obvious that the thieves took my custom Rickson wheels and tires, the air-bag suspension for my camper and the entire front-end bumper-winch-lights assembly. Also gone is my truck box and its entire contents of winch equipment, towing gear, fuel cans, tools, etc.

Under the hood, both batteries were removed by cutting the wiring harnesses, and other engine parts are damaged or missing. The interior was entirely stripped of seats, console, electronics, etc. All of my personal property was taken, including a large duffel of winter gear for my trip to Alaska.



If you've been following my travels, you know that Darth is an integral part -- literally the driving force -- of my road rig. This is a major set-back for me, both personally and professionally.

I'm fully engaged in the insurance process, but I don't know anything yet. I have no idea what will happen, how or when. I will let you know when I do. Please don't ask me any questions.

Meanwhile, I still plan to establish my winter camp in Anacortes. A friend has very kindly offered to tow my camper sled to the RV park where I will be staying. After that, I can only wait to see what happens with Darth, consider my options going forward and make plans accordingly.

If it's sick to love a machine, I plead guilty. Darth has served me exceptionally well in every situation we have faced together, from the most comfortable pleasure cruises down the road to the harshest of extreme arctic expeditions. He didn't deserve this treatment at the hands of savages.

SP Kennel: Season Start-Up

I'm at SP Kennel in Two Rivers, Alaska, for a couple of weeks, to help with some "season start-up" projects.

First things first, however, I got some quality time with the dogs, including this photo op with fantastic lead dog Dingle!

Within moments of my arrival, I was covered in mud and dog hair -- pretty much "as usual" around here -- and just as happy as I can be!

So, what am I doing here?

The biggest project is upgrading the SPK DogLog with a top priority to show "more dogs, more of the time." Check it out!

I'm also updating databases for dog training stats, keeping track of sponsors and an assortment of new collateral material. There's a whole lot more to running a kennel than just running dogs, and it's hard -- but very important -- to keep it all up to date in the chaos of a sled dog racing season.

It's been two full seasons since I've been here, but it mostly feels very familiar.

One thing I remember quite well is the temperature! It's only the middle of October, but it's already a very "crispy" 12 degrees outside. That's nothing compared to the dead of winter around here, but it's a slap in the face coming up from 70 degree Seattle.

I also remember how fast the days get shorter at this latitude. In just the week I've been here, the sun has set noticeably earlier!

There's also a lot that has changed since I was last here. The first thing I noticed are all the new faces of dogs I don't know!

During my two consecutive winters here from '08-'10, I'd gotten to the point I could identify every dog on sight, coming or going, in the dim daylight or the black of night. I can still recognize much of the team, but there are many young, rising superstars whom I can't tell apart. The hardest to identify -- by far -- are Biscuit's yearlings... Seriously, give me a break!



Another big change at SP Kennel are the new buildings. When I was here, we did everything in the small basement of the house, with much tripping over sleds, gear, clothing and each other. There was a pole barn where you could dig out something you might need, and a very small feed shed that wasn't much more than a place to keep kibble locked away from scavengers.

The old pole barn and feed shed are gone, replaced by a large workshop building. Big enough to hold the four-wheelers, sleds, gear, etc., it also houses the workout facilities that Aliy and Allen use to keep in peak physical shape. On top of all that, it has facilities for dog examinations, treatment, rehabilitation and even housing!



The other new building was built specifically for a major research project this summer, and consists of a central 18-dog "condo" area with individual runs outside. It will be used for various purposes going forward, including to give dogs a chance to get inside during the coldest days of winter.



Despite the very strong lure of SP Kennel, I won't be staying for the winter. It just doesn't fit into my life right now. I will do as much as I can over the next ten days to help the SP Kennel Team rev up. I'm looking forward to another fantastic season of sled dog racing... Stay tuned!

A Cinderella Story

The ballet performance of Cinderella that my good friend Brendan and I attended yesterday -- to see his wife Maria Chapman dance the lead -- was a Saturday matinee. Typical for such a performance day and time, the audience was at least one-quarter composed of little girls dressed in all manner of Cinderella-like outfits, dreaming of being the fairytale girl herself.

We were blessed -- and quite entertained -- to have one such little girl sitting right in front of us. Throughout the performance, she swayed in her seat to the music and dance, quietly asked her mother a million questions and had her eyes riveted on Cinderella.

During the intermissions, we chatted briefly with her mom about how fun it was to see her daughter caught up in the magic, and to acknowledge that her daughter is destined to be "quite a handful."

As the curtain calls were wrapping up, Brendan tapped the mom on her shoulder, explained that Maria is his wife and asked, "Would your daughter like to meet Cinderella?" The answer was an emphatic "Yes!" and we hustled backstage.

At first the little girl was a bit overwhelmed, but quickly adjusted and beamed from ear to ear while posing for a photo with her fairytale idol. Could it be any sweeter than this?

When Maria went into her dressing room to change, the prop mistress brought out her tiara and asked the little girl if she'd like to wear "Cinderella's crown."

Her answer was another emphatic "Yes!" and I got this shot which is surely destined to be a lifetime memento... Perfect!

I've since corresponded with the girl's mom to share my photos and get her approval to post this story. In one of her emails she wrote:

"Thank you so much for the rare and special opportunity to meet 'the real' Cinderella. It was very exciting for both me and my daughter. I find it so interesting to see how, for a 4 yr old, the line between reality and make believe is so blurry. I'm not sure yet how much she really understands. What I do know is that she thinks that she met Cinderella and wore her crown!"

I replied that I believe her daughter is right: She did meet Cinderella and wore her crown. I think the difference "between reality and make believe" is highly over-rated. Life is about what's possible, and we have photos to prove it.

Let's all take a lesson from this: If you get a chance to meet Cinderella and wear her crown, do it and don't let anybody tell you it wasn't real. Later in life -- whenever you get the opportunity -- give young people the chance to meet their Cinderellas, too. Life really is about what's possible.

My Date With Cinderella

What is Cinderella thinking about as she sits in her carriage and dreamily stares into the distance?

She's thinking about her dinner date with me, of course!

Okay, okay… She's not really Cinderella, I'm clearly not Prince Charming, and our dinner definitely wasn't a date!

But, fairly tales aren't just for little girls, you know. Broken down old guys like me can dabble in a little make-believe now and then, too.

So, I trust you will forgive my little bit of whimsy... Here's the real story:

Maria Chapman is my absolute favorite ballerina. I first noticed her many years ago when she was in the corps of the Pacific Northwest Ballet. She is now a principal dancer.

There is something special about the way Maria moves that is different from most ballerinas I've ever seen. None of that stiff, edgy, fussy feeling I often get from dancers. Maria is much more flowing, relaxed and just plain enjoyable to watch. I think that has a lot to do with her popularity.

A few years ago, Maria married a young client/friend of mine, and I have had the pleasure of getting to know her socially. She is just as charming and delightful in person as she is on the stage.

Whenever I'm in Seattle, her husband and I make it a point to attend whatever ballet she is in at the time. Today, we saw her dance the lead role in Cinderella, with plans to have dinner together after the performance.

Backstage after the curtain calls, I asked Maria if I could get a photo with Cinderella and she was gracious enough to humor me.

As you can see, Maria is a perfect ballerina: Stunning beauty, exquisite posture, radiant smile and that special ability to look perfect in every photo ever taken of her!

Maria made a quick change into street clothes, then did an after-performance Q&A session with members of the audience. Despite being asked questions which she's been asked a zillion times before -- e.g. When did you start dancing? What is your favorite role? -- she answered each one as if it was the first time she'd ever been asked.

With all of Maria's celebrity responsibilities fulfilled, the three of us walked to a nearby restaurant and had a nice dinner together. (Note: Another thing that distinguishes Maria from many other dancers is that she eats like a normal person!) After coffee, we all took a "real-life" photo together.



You will no doubt notice that Maria looks beautiful in street clothes, without makeup or costume, while her husband Brendan and I look like a couple of guys she might have picked up at the pound!

There you have it, my "date" with Cinderella. What's even better than make-believe is when I get to have a great visit with two of my real-life friends, both of whom I am honored and privileged to know!

Seattle Weekend Camp

I recently posted a photo taken from the rooftop deck of my Anacortes "transition" camp. Now, here's a shot from the rooftop deck of my Seattle "weekend" camp!



While my good friend Archie McPhee is out of the country this month, I've been doing a little house-sitting for him. Actually, houseBOAT-sitting is more accurate, since his home is a houseboat that floats on Lake Union. As you can see, it's got a pretty nice view of the iconic Seattle skyline.

I have to admit that it's been a bit of a shock for me to be in a big city again. I've become such a "small town guy" that I struggle a little with all the traffic, noise, hustle, bustle and people in the city.

What's more of a shock for me, frankly, is that I've gone from being essentially "homeless" to having two houses! It's kinda fun for a while, but I'm looking forward to establishing myself in my winter camp next month.

More about that soon... Stay tuned!

Flashback: AlCan Road Trip!

I have finally finished posting my epic AlCan highway road trip! It's required a ridiculous amount of work, and taken me almost three years to compile, edit and post!

My coverage of the eight day journey includes 90 minutes of video, featuring narrated live footage and dash-cam still photos of almost every one of the 2,000+ grueling miles.

I think it's been worth it, though, because the AlCan is an important part of the ongoing Voyages of Macgellan!

I recommend you use one of these two methods for viewing my AlCan coverage:

1) If you want to pace yourself -- perhaps over a similar eight day period! -- you can view each day's post separately by clicking on the links below. (Note: It will take you about 15 minutes to read the post and view the video for each day)

Day 1 -- Seattle, WA to Hope, BC
Day 2 -- Hope, BC to Quesnel, BC
Day 3 -- Quesnel, BC to Chetwynd, BC
Day 4 -- Chetwynd, BC to Fort Nelson, BC
Day 5 -- Fort Nelson, BC to Watson Lake, YT
Day 6 -- Watson Lake, YT to Haines Junction, YT
Day 7 -- Haines Junction, YT to Tok, AK
Day 8 -- Tok, AK to Fairbanks, AK

2) If you want to have more of a marathon experience -- more like the road trip itself! -- you can hunker down with a pot of coffee (or maybe a bottle of whiskey!) and view the coverage all in one chronological post by clicking the link below. (Note: It will take you about two hours to read the entire post and view all the videos)

AlCan: Eight Day Road Trip from Seattle to Fairbanks

Whichever method you choose, I'm confident the only way you can get a better, fuller experience of the famous AlCan highway road trip is to drive it yourself!... Enjoy your journey!

(Note: This set of posts is also significant because it means that I am now entirely caught up with everything on this website! The entire Macgellan story is now up to date... Stay tuned!)

Anacortes Transition Camp

I'm in Anacortes, Washington, and have set myself up in a "transition camp." I'm calling it that since I expect to be here -- staying in the "renovation in process" house of some friends -- only through October. Then I'll either establish a true "winter camp" in the area or move on with a new expedition.

Meanwhile, I'm very comfy here and have an absolutely fantastic view to enjoy with my morning coffee... and any other time I feel like enjoying a spectacular visual treat!



I've got quite a bit of personal business to attend to here in the Pacific Northwest, so I probably won't have much to post here for a while. On the other hand, you just never know… Stay tuned!

Click here to see exactly where I am posting this from on Google Maps.

US Hwy 30: Completion

To wrap things up this morning, I visited Fort Clatsop, the recreated over-winter fort of Lewis & Clark. It's a pretty spartan affair by modern standards, but it must have been welcomed quarters for members of the party after their long and grueling trek. Despite the almost continual rain and cold they had that winter, it was at least a place they could call home for a while.



The fort is one of many attraction in the Astoria area, a region I highly recommend. There's a lot of history and culture here, all pretty well presented. One of the main features of the area is the presence of the Columbia River on one side of the peninsula and the Pacific Ocean on another. As is my custom, I went to the beach and spent some time there. Some walking and some just sitting, but all very good for my soul.



Probably more than any other road in America, US Highway 30 is a road rich in history. Including large parts of the Lincoln Highway -- the first trans-continental road in the country -- as well as much of the Oregon Trail and Lewis & Clark's route, driving it has been an ongoing homage to early American History.

That's been helpful for me to keep in mind, because I can't really say that the road itself has been particularly enjoyable. Poor road conditions through long stretches combined with many broken down old towns and being subsumed into various interstates to give a sense that this famous, historic road has been left to rot.

That said, however, it's been an excellent road trip. I've had many good experiences along the way and gained many valuable insights. Those are my primary criteria for exploration, so I happily declare the successful completion of another Macgellan expedition. Thanks for riding along with me.

In the morning, I'll be heading north and plan to reach Anacortes, Washington. There I will establish my own winter camp. What's next for Macgellan?… Stay tuned!

Click here to see exactly where I am posting this from on Google Maps.

US Hwy 30: Western Terminus

An hour's drive to Portland, a few minutes through the big city and another two hours to the coast. That pretty much sums up my drive today. After so many days -- weeks! -- without trees, they pretty well hemmed in the roadway on both sides throughout the ride. As a result, I don't have any of my customary scenic photos. What I do have is a photo of what we've all been heading toward!

Thus, I have arrived in Astoria, Oregon, the western terminus of US Highway 30 and the physical end of this road trip.

I have a few things in mind for tomorrow that will serve as a sort of ceremonial wrap-up, but today it seemed appropriate simply to have an espresso shot at the Journey's End.

Congratulations to all of us on another successful coast-to-coast journey!

What's next you wonder?... Stay tuned!

(PS - Also tomorrow, I've also got a good shot at working out a special bit of fun to share with you!)

Click here to see exactly where I am posting this from on Google Maps.